magnetic blackboards – a must have!

This is so easy to do and creates such a great space your kids to be creative and to learn. I purchased this magnetic blackboard paint from Trade Me. It required three coats to get a strong magnetic hold. I also brought some magnetic words and maths times tables.

marble magic

Once your child reaches the ‘put everything in their mouths’ stage, marbles can be a pain in the bum! So I decided to make a concrete tile with mine! My 18 month year loves it! I going to produce some for our local Playcentre ; )

enriching kids making use of marbles

todays revamp

I was kept busy today revamping these pieces I scored for free! All it took was a good sanding with my orbital sander and a couple of coats of paint.

I was lazy with the display cabinet, and spray painted it!

revamp

The white draws unscrewed and could be removed from the cabinet! Along with the shed I recently acquired was a wooden table top, perfect for this cabinet!

revamp

From these unwanted pieces to these:

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restored display cabinet draws table revamprestored display cabinet draws table revamp

 

 

Epoxy experience

So I was recommended an epoxy resin to use, and to be honest, two pots of Kleer Kast Polyester Resin and I’m over it. It smells soooo bad, takes ages to fully cure, and often leaves a tacky surface which needs doming or sanding to eliminate.

So I purchased 1.5L of Entropy Super Sap CCR (Clear Cast Resin) from the Fibreglass Shop in Hamilton.

http://www.fibreglassshop.co.nz/search?q=Ccr

It was so easy to mix, a 1:2 ratio to a hardener, and didn’t smell!!!!


I ordered a silicone soap mould, and had a go embedding insects and a fern that I had been drying out.

I wiped down the mould with spray cooking oil, then half filled each space with resin. After curing for 30min I placed the pieces and left over night.


 The following day I filled the spaces, covering the pieces to be embedded, and left the mould under a dome to fully cure.

It was a hot day and by the afternoon they were fully cured, with no tacky surface!!!!

I messed up tho and had quite a few boo boos.

The insects had continued to bubble. I should have stayed and watched it cured for a while ensuring all bubbles were expelled.

Even the fern was crappy. I should have pressed it firmly into place to push the bubbles out.

Oppsie. Oh well, heaps of fun playing in my shed ; ) will try again tomorrow.

Loving Fibreglass Shop’s  Entropy Super Sap CCR (Clear Cast Resin). Purchased online via their website and couriered to my doorstep the very next day.

  
  
  
  
  
  

embedding stuff in resin

Using these ice cube trays that had been wiped down with some spray cooking oil I made these awesome embedded resin pieces. They can either be left as curious pieces or have a hole drilled through to make beautiful pieces of jewellery.

I simply filled each mould compartment with Norski Kleer Kast Diamond Embedding Resin, waiting for it to cure a little then placed my insects, feathers and pressed leaves.

I topped up the compartments, and covered the trays until fully cured. With a twist of the trays the pieces easily popped out. The surface exposed to the air stayed a bit tacky for a couple of days. I could have coated that surface with Norski Doming resin to seal it, but in the hot weather we have been having lately, they hardened on their own.

 

The insects used had been drying out in my hot water cupboard for a week prior, and the fern leaves had been pressed dry. If there is any moisture in the object you will get a milky white appearance on them once embedded, and I suppose they will rot.

 

My Shed!

I am one happy woman! My husband comes home from a surf with such a goofy smile on his face and now I have one too! I have my very own shed!

I purchased it on Trade Me for $30, and then quietly informed my hubby, that I wasn’t sure how to get it down to Tairua from its location in Auckland!

But a few good mates latter, it has its new location in the corner of my garden.

Now I don’t have to worry about poisoning the kids with the resin fumes ;  )

my second resin bracelet mould

Making a silicone mould

This was a really fun project. I love using silicone to make moulds. I started making my moulds with liquid latex, which is very time consuming and the result is a much more flimsy less durable mould. I purchase my liquid latex and silicone from www.stmpro.co.nzsilicon silicone mould mold for resin bracelet

I found this basic wooden bracelet at our local op shop, purchased for $1. I pressed pins into one side of the bracelet and trimmed them to approx. 5mm long. This created a kinda of tripod that the bracelet could stand on, so that the silicone would surround the entire bracelet, leaving a couple of tiny knobs to sand off at the edge, rather than a complete blunt edge to round.

silicon silicone mould mold for resin braceletsilicon silicone mould mold for resin braceletsilicon silicone mould mold for resin braceletI placed the bracelet inside a plastic container, and blue tacked a small bottle to the centre. I lightly sprayed it with cooking oil to aid in mould release.

 

 

Then I got ready to mix the silicone.

STM Pro provides very clear instructions with their product, outlining all the safety precautions necessary and the correct ratios of silicone to catalyst.

 

silicon silicone mould mold for resin braceletsilicon silicone mould mold for resin braceletsilicon silicone mould mold for resin braceletsilicon silicone mould mold for resin braceletsilicon silicone mould mold for resin braceletsilicon silicone mould mold for resin bracelet

Very happy with the end result, and look forward to producing some unique bracelets using Super Sap Clear Casting Epoxy Resin purchased online from http://www.fibreglassshop.co.nz

Resin bracelets

I had a lot of fun making these resin bracelets and am really happy with the results.

I purchased the moulds from a Trade Me store called Beadaholique. They were amazing! Very reasonable prices with cheap postage, especially considering the products were shipped from the US. They did however charge me each item’s postage fee instead of combining the shipping cost, and its very hard to communicate with them if there is an issue.

I used Norski Kleer Kast Diamond Embedding Resin which I ordered from totalbodyshop.co.nz, who I will not use again. I placed a second order with them for release wax and pigments, which never turned up. I tried to email them to find out where the order was, but heard nothing, so I requested a refund, which surprisingly was done straight away. Not quite sure what happened there. Pity tho, they have a great website and stock a huge range of products.

 

embedding paper in resin

So my sister in Adelaide sent me something to try; embedding paper in resin. She provided me with a metal tray her kids had been playing with in the yard, making mud pies, and some pages torn from old books. So I went to work, searching online how to do this! http://www.resinobsession.com helped alotJan2015 103

I cut a circle, the desired size with wax paper, that way I could see the print beneath while placing it on a page for cutting. The circle was a tad smaller than the mould, to ensure resin would completely surround the paper.

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Then I taped down some wax paper and painted the pieces of paper with PVA glue. I let this set and repeated. Once the side was completely dry I pealed the circles off the wax par, and did the same to the other side. Once that side was dry I trimmed the edge of the glue leaving a wee gap, to ensure it was completely sealed.

PVA glue paper embedding

The second method was to cover both sides of the paper circles with clear celeotape. This was soooo much easier! And quicker!

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I filled the mould 1/2 full of Kleer Kast Embedding Resin, and after about an hour, carefully placed each circle on the sticky resin, trying hard not to trap any air bubbles. Then I filled the mould and let sit under a dome until fully cured.

 

The results were not too good. Thankfully I only tried four to start with ; ) As the mould was solid I couldn’t twist it to loosen the finished items plus I didn’t used much mould release (only a light rub down with cooking oil). This would have helped with removing the items, and also smoothed over the mould, instead items shows the tiny scratches that were all over the metal mould. With some buffering and waxing they would look ok, but then I had to use a knife to pick at the item to get it out! So they are covered in chips. I suppose I could sand these out, but its just not worth the effort. Fun time trialling methods tho, and learning as I go…..

As for the PVA method vs the celotape; Even though the celotape method was heaps easier and faster the mess the PVA method made was well worth the results. You can clearly see the celotape edge in the resin, but the PVA edge is almost invisible. I will try both methods again, with a different, silicone mould, and using Modge Podge instead of PVA.

Stay tuned ; )